SeeDozens of greens, from almost black after the night rain to young leaves lit by the morning sun. In the evening, the last gold going out in the trees.

You arrive tired of screens, flights and decisions. Then something happens: you eat more slowly, breathe deeper, look longer, sleep better.
SeeDozens of greens, from almost black after the night rain to young leaves lit by the morning sun. In the evening, the last gold going out in the trees.
HearRain starting on the leaves. Birds in the morning, cicadas at dusk, the river somewhere below. Sometimes monkeys arguing on a roof.
SmellIncense from the morning offerings, laid out before the heat comes up. Wet earth after rain, frangipani, and warm oil on your skin long after the massage is over.
TasteCoffee from Balinese beans, grown two valleys over and roasted dark. Then ripe fruit you want to eat with your hands, and a slow breakfast, because for once there is nowhere to be.
TouchWarm hands on your back, slow and sure, and a body that finally lets go. Then cool water early in the morning, stone and wet grass under bare feet.
To live in your body, not only in your head. It is not for everyone, and we say so.
Is this place for you?The pool, the spa, the shala, two kitchens and the valley at the gate. Come when you feel like it.
You swim to the edge and the forest takes over where the water stops. Towels and daybeds are already there, and the bar is a few steps up.
An hour in, you have stopped listening for anything but the water below. Pavilions open on one side to the gorge: Balinese massage, hot stones, Shirodhara, the two-hour Memory of Couple.
You come down to practise and end up listening: the river under you, the net over the trees, your own breath somewhere in between. Sunset sessions are the ones guests ask for.
Dinner starts when the light begins its slow change over the valley. A European kitchen (pastas, steaks, fish) and a short list of Indonesian dishes on the terrace edge; arak and coffee from two valleys over at the Hidden Gem bar. Breakfast can float in your pool.
Ten minutes down the path and the resort is gone: just the river, the village of Pejeng Kawan around you, and the macaques keeping their own hours.
Cold air on a volcano at dawn, spring water over your head at a temple, your own hands in the kitchen. Kintamani at sunrise, melukat at the springs, Mount Batur, a cooking class in our kitchen and a night across the water on Nusa Penida.
Two to five nights with all of this already arranged: the package programs.
See the programs
Five categories along the rim of the gorge. The Premiere Suites stand closest to the water: step off the terrace and you are in 55 metres of infinity pool, shared by eight suites and nobody else.
A thousand square metres, four bedrooms, eleven guests and a staff of its own. Taken whole, by families and by people who would rather not meet any.

Wake, cross the terrace, and you are in the water before you are properly awake. All eight suites have this, and they book first every season.

At night the door closes on a house, not a hotel room: two proper bedrooms, a kitchen, and the Hidden Gem bar a few steps away for when you want company.

Nobody in sight and nobody to hear: a four-poster, an outdoor bath and a plunge pool of your own, set apart at the north end of the garden.
Also the Valley View Suite, the Garden Suite and Villa Oia, from 48 to 1,000 square metres.
All accommodation
Ready-made stays of two to five nights, built around what you need now. Three questions will show which one is yours.
Twenty suites and villas stand along the west rim of the Petanu gorge, in a working Balinese village, a ten-minute drive from central Ubud. Every room faces the sunset. Below the terrace the river runs through forest that has never been cleared, the same forest the long-tailed macaques cross at dusk on their way upstream.


Swim out to the far edge and the forest begins where the water ends. You will stay there longer than you meant to.

The troop lives along the gorge and wanders the grounds on its own schedule: gentle with people, quick with unattended food. Admire them; please don’t feed them.

Down through the gardens to the water, with the story of the river the Balinese still call cursed.

A working village, not a set. Offerings on the doorsteps, temple mornings, everyday life at the gate. The carving workshops are further out: a short drive, not a stroll.
Five experiences, every one of them ours, from a sunrise at Mount Batur to a night across the water on Nusa Penida.
All experiences
You lie down and the valley does the rest. The treatment rooms are open on one side to the gorge, so the massage comes with the sound of the water eighty metres below. Rituals are built on the royal Balinese formulas: turmeric, ginger, frangipani and sandalwood, ground on the property.

By seven the whole terrace has turned to face the sun. A European kitchen (pastas, steaks, fish) with a short list of Indonesian dishes cooked the village way.

The hour when the light changes and nobody wants to move: arak, coffee grown two valleys over, and the best seat on the property between five and seven.
Prices are per night for the room, at the lowest point of the year. February is the quietest month and July the busiest, when the same room costs up to 1.8 times more. For your dates, the booking page shows the exact price.
A booking made here goes straight to the hotel. Your questions, changes and special requests reach the front desk, not a call centre.
Check your dates
The most beautiful sunset I have seen in Ubud.
